Tea Time! Ladurée Crystal Violet Petals, Mariage Frères Earl Grey & Bavaria Scherzer Tea Cup on Valentine’s Day

Happy Valentine’s Day! In Finland it is more of a celebration between close friends or beloved members. By invited to a meet-up event from Institute Français de Finlande at night before 14th, the surprise treat, petals de violettes naturelles cristallisées from Paris Ladurée, wrapped in a crystal-clear packaging tide atop of a baby pinkish ribbon, makes the Valentine tea time more alternatively inviting. 

Originated from south of France, Crystallised violet petals, or called violettes de Toulouse, are approximately 2-5mm in size, made of sugar, natural violet flowers, acacia gum and natural colourings. Still commercially made in Toulouse, that hot syrup is poured over the fresh flower (or the flower is immersed in the syrup) and stirred until the sugar recrystallizes and has dried. Violet petals can be nibbled on as they are, or used to garnish cakes, while recommended as perfect for popping in a glass of champagne or sparkling wine. Still, the intense violet scent conjuring up with earl grey tea and Jules Destrooper butter waffles, are the perfect finishing touch to French-style teatime. 

The choice of tea on Valentine’s Day is Mariage Frères Earl Grey French Blue. I’ve been always fascinated by the various flavor of Mariage Frères during the duty at Louis Vuitton, and finally purchased at Nice Airport duty free. The high quality of Mariage Frères tea bags rely on the use of original French cotton muslin sachets, allow China black tea, velvety bergamot, cornflower and royal blue flowers to give out the sweet and rich aroma while pouring 90’c simmering water. Founded on 1^stJune in 1854 by brothers Henri and Edouard Mariage, before the tea trade and tea salon business, Mariage brother began voyaging on behalf of the royal court in 1660: Pierre was sent to Madagascar on a mission for the French East India Company, while Nicolas made to Persia and India before being named part of an official deputation sent by Louis XIV. 

For the teacup, I love to discover a bargain at local theft stores or at Retro & Vintage Expo in Helsinki. In total 3 EUR for a set of 12 pieces of China bones, engraved with lily in pastel grey and deep purple hues, while bronzing the edges of the tea sauce, Bavaria Scherzer teacup collection is a surprise discovery. The firm was established in Rehau, 1880 by Johann Nicol Adam Zeh, in 1910 it was transformed into a limited company Porzellanfabrik Zeh, Scherzer & Co. A.G., and exported over 70 percent of production to United States, while Bavaria Scherzer ceased its production of porcelain in 1992. My collection of the trademark, at the bottom, without ZEH, lists SCHERZER BAVARIA GERMANY, with a royal crown above the text. 

For the additional snacks at French-style afternoon teatime, Jules Destrooper waffle cookies with natural butter and sugar from Belgium, is my all-time favourite, with Wilkin & Sons honey and raspberry jam, they are balancing the strong taste of Mariage Prères black tea. Since the petals de violettes naturelles cristallisées from Paris Ladurée are in hues of pink and purple, a touch of Mozart chocolate balls, with folio-wrap details of copper gold and burgundy red, and the Japanese sushi-shape lollipop are very welcome on the setting of photography. Valentine’s Day major theme doesn’t always have to stick with poppy reddish: while violet, pink, grey and gold can altogether compose la petite chanson d’amour. 

Special Thanks: JFB

MARIAGE FRÈRES
LADURÉE

Beauty Boom! Christian Dior & Miss Dior Eau de Parfum for 2020!

2019 began with a hip-hop party at Helsinki central, ended with a profound breakfast date with lovely friends of all-time. It is a year full of trips and events, while inevitably encountering certain hardships and gossips; while the best part of obstacle is that viewing myself as how truly is, allows me to meditate and make adjustments. 

New Eau de Parfum represents the New me! Miss Dior Eau de Parfum débuted on February 12th, 1947, when Christian Dior introduced it with his first fashion show. The name was given by when his sister, Catherine, arrived by surprised, and Mitzah Bricard, the fashion counselor, pointed out that, “See, it’s Miss Dior”. 

Miss Dior Eau de Parfum reformulation released in September 2017, created by Dior Perfumer François Demachy. The composition of new edition is announced as elegant floral, the top notes are lemon, pink pepper, blood and sweet orange, while the cores are roses from Grasse and Damask completing with jasmine leaf, and the bottom of the pyramid are palisander rosewood and patchouli. The use of citrus fruits leaves behind a modern-chypre style and brings a new carnal-chypre. The mix of the roses gain a different weight as if it were a jam made with a fallen petals and green buds that were discarded during the morning harvest. Elegant, mature, sexy and ultra feminine, Miss Dior’s sillage is moderate, but the longevity is excellent. 

The crystal clear parfum bottle delivers the original spirit of House of Dior: on the tap engraving the capitalized CD, a silver ribbon bridges the rectangular body; the ivory white sticker on the letters of vintage epistle ‘Miss Dior’ atop of classic bold font ‘EAU DE PARFUM’, while at the bottom of the bottle marbling with a platoon of 15 hounds tooth pattern. Turning the bottle from the perspectives of its opposite side, the label sticker shows ‘MADE IN FRANCE’, while the trademark of ‘Parfums Christian Dior’ remains in oldie touch. The light baby pink cardboard box are silvering at the edge; both the lid and the sides of the packaging are sealed with classic hounds tooth marks. 

As for the inspiration of photography, besides the fuchsia purple dry roses, Dior crème abricot (fortifying cream) for nails filled within a vintage-touch ivory cosmetic case, and the copper gold Miss Dior refillable natural spray (7.5ml) empty bottle was found at Helsinki Retro & Vintage Expo, deliver a beauty set accompany with Miss Dior. Dior nail polish Candy Cane #984 and 9 A.M. #881, both carrying purplish hues, are the lovely treatment from my long-term friend Soniya, definitely matching the peachy apricot tone of new Miss Dior. The golden mini paper bag is from Dior Monaco, while the backstage black version is the extra freebie from Dior Taipei, and the burgundy acetate sunglasses are my proud bargain at Bicester Village in Oxford Shire, England, in 2018. Dior represents the deluxe detour to the defined decades. 

Special Thanks: Soniya

Magazine Madness: Sienna Miller: From Factory Girl to American Woman

ELLE UK November 2019 

The reason that I fall in love with fashion magazine, is not only due to it ‘documenting both the culture we live through’, (Storr, 45), but it a combination of piece of art: from the idea of inspiration, the choice of theme, the writings of words, the selection of garment and accessories, the realization of photography, the editing of every page turn and the cover of the girl, even the smell of the paper…. monthly while it released on the shelves, that I know I am the most happiest reader ever be. 

Next to Kate Moss, British designer/actress Sienna Miller is yet another cover girl I thrive to add to my magazine collection. She may, perhaps, be always seen as someone’s girlfriend, then someone fashionable, but while she performed in 2006’s Factory Girl as Edie Sedgwick, her several seconds of frowning concentration or the rather hoarse voices, I sense that she has the real deal. In 2012 Sienna Miller and her sister Savannah co-founded eponymous fashion line Twenty8Twelve, which I owned 2 or 3 pieces, I adore how sophisticate the materials and cutline they design, and their individual way to support British independent artists (by inserting the drawing in each clothing label envelope).

Her choppy ride into tabloid reveals that at private, Sienna Miller genuinely possesses both of her rock ‘n’ roll mixing with Bohemian trendy street styles. In ELLE UK November 2019 issue, under the lens of Cass Bird, Sienna is wearing Chloé jumper and skirt with Alexander McQueen military boots, walking boyish on the wooden boardwalk still she looks attractive and elegant on wearing transparent logo bodysuit by Fendi, hiding herself in a tremendous Gucci shopping tote ; those who truly understand their own bodies and develop the very honest fashion philosophy, without the mere sponsorship by stylists or commercial collaboration, definitely own certain level of rare talents, since a lot of homo sapien struggle onto it most of the lives. 

Surviving through the mercilessly media hound, it is always Sienna Miller’s goal is to continuously find rich characters with strong arcs, to become a serious actress. If Miller continues to score the role like American Woman, no longer she will be BAFTA or Academy conversations (though I also like her tough heroine image at G.I. Joe: The Rise of Cobra, 2009) The relief part is there is a rich tradition of women actors from the UK getting higher at career as they age, many securing their widest acclaim in their seventies: Judi Dench, Helen Mirren or Maggie Smith. 

The flip side of fame acts like double-blade, to reach the balance between the enriched celebrity life and sanity mother is what Miller is long-term game. For who we yearn her smiles and styles, we are pleased to see Miller glowing effortlessly, aging gracefully, shining constantly on the cover of fashion magazine. 

Fashion Fun Cannes! Chanel Ballerina, Sonia Rykiel Tank Top & Acne Studios Wool Cardigan in French Riviera

November 19-24

Côte d’Azur, France 

November is my beloved birthday month yet the trickiest season to embark on a sunny journey. In 2016 Berlin provided me drizzling but highly artistic experiences, while the next following 2 years the busy working schedule occupied the travelling plans; therefore, 2019 Côte d’Azur travelling idea must be on execution.  

Choosing the accommodation in the neighbourhood of Nice Ville, commuting to the satellite cities by SNCF for full day tour is the comfortable programme to travel alongside French Riviera. Cannes takes merely 25 minutes away from Nice, return tickets 14, 20 Euros, though film festival season has already gone, Promenade de la Croisette and Le Suquet attract me to explore from the waterfront avenue of Canas. 

Outfits of tour day in Cannes are Sonia Rykiel 66% virgin wool with 34% viscose tank top; under the creative direction of Julie de Libran, the brand’s collections feel fresh, wearable and coolly Parisian. Made in Italy, the hollow design in ivory white matches well with mid-rise Zara Premium ripped jeans, and Chanel two-tone ballerina, which, have been popular since 1957, when Audrey Hepburn first wore them in Funny Face. Made in Italy, the lambskin materials keep style of day trendy while walking at Cannes Harbour and foot comfy during climbing uphill to Museé de la Castre. 

In order to keep warm during cloudy day, layering Chanel AW17 100% wool open cardigan, Acne Studios 38% nylon, 30% wool, 28% mohair and 4% elastane Raya long coat and Acne Studios 100% wool scarf atop of Sonia Rykiel tank top, combining the greyish tone but also casual look to cruise around Promenade de la Croisette. I apply Chanel Rouge Allure Velvet luminous matte No.3 and wearing Chanel AW19 Baroque earrings for the completion of focal outlook. 

As for the photography, harbor next to Palais des Festivals et des Congrès perch numerous luxurious yachts, the further backup with brownish of stony Le Suquet, all together merge into ashy pastel pigment. I kindly request a Chinese couple, a Russian family and an Indian group for the fashion fun photos taking. It’s low and quiet tourism season, the wind is strong after 17:00, occasionally drizzling, at the gate of last refuge of man of the iron mask, unexpectedly stepping a piece of merde, still, Cannes owns her elegant beauty, Cannes always allures me. 

TOP TIP 1: Apply the rouge lipsticks to enhance the greyish hues of outfit and the paleness of skin tone 

TOP TIP2: Layering multiple fine wool cardigans to omit the heavy winter coats during the journey 

Tea Time! When Jean-Paul Hévin Greets Jules Destrooper with Kaiser Porzellan

Was, am, and always will be the macarons fan, while me discovering the cute chocolate shop Jean-Paul Hévin at côté cour, 231 Rue de Saint-Honoré, is one of the unexpected mini adventure when walking at Paris rive droite. After a group of American tourists’ shopping, the macarons set of 5, chocolate tablette, sachet palets lait and caramel chocolate bar are coming home with me. 

Teatime in gloomy October with Jean-Paul Hévin from France, Jules Destrooper from Belgium and wild berry green tea from Finland, is the best remedy to stay in delight at very dark moments. Born in 1957, Jean-Paul Hévin, is a French manufacturer of high-end chocolate, who operates stores in Paris, Japan and Hong Kong, has been winning gourmet and pastry awards since 1979. The macarons set of 5, wrapped delicately with plastic stand on golden ribbon, offers crunchy texture but less level of sugar taste. With dark chocolate ganache, Normandy delivers the smell of coffee and sweet of caramel, Cremè Brûlée owns creamy vanilla biscuit and smooth bites, while Praline offers almond sprinkles and milky taste. Jean- Paul Hévin differs from Ladurée, is that the macarons ganache largely based on fine quality of cacao, could be up to minimum 74%; while even combining double-tone biscuits for each piece, the collection of macarons is in brownish hues rather than pinkish kawaii from Ladurée. 

For the chocolate, I love Jean-Paul Hévin sachet palets lait milk chocolate (cocoa maximum 40%) together with macarons, the slim and cute packaging is easy to insert one or two in daily sac and supply my energy whenever I crave for. Chocolate tablette is a perfect souvenir idea, from plain milk to 81% of cocoa, there are various selection from Jean-Paul Hévin chocolate shop. I reserve cocoa 74% Trinidad/Ghana/Ecuador tablette for my teatime, which, the woody and spicy notes, fresh and fermented bean taste balanced and persistent in the mouth, is perfect with wild berry green tea. 

In order to balance the sweetness and reduce the bitterness from macarons and cocoa, wild berry tea from Théhuone (tea house in Finnish) with ingredients of elderberries, strawberries, blackberries and raspberry leaves provides breezy odor, fore the brewing boiled water only requiring 80 Celsius degrees after 4 minutes, perfect together with Jules Destrooper waffle biscuits, for the switch of light and airy taste. The special vanilla ingredients from Jules Destrooper butter waffle, is that Bourbon vanilla pods, originating from the biological cultivation of the vanilla orchid in Madagascar, releases much more flexible and soft smells than the generally dry pods you get from the market.

 

As for the porcelain to enjoy wild berry green tea with a spoonful of rose buds from Varna, Bulgaria, I go for Kaiser Porzellan, established from 1872, Germany, discovered at second hand shop in Helsinki, a 80 ml cup decorated with royal blue of bell flowers, on the edge of cup mouth glazed a copper golden trim. In Germany, most of teacups or saucers are made with hard porcelain. Its main characteristic consists of a high percentage of kaolin (50%) and feldspar icing, which only melts at a temperature of 1,400-1,500 Celsius degrees. This leads to an extraordinary hardness of the glaze, as well strength of the body of teacup or saucer itself. For the macarons and waffles, I match the Kaiser teacup with Lomonosov ceramic plates, in order to create a royal blue tone of tea table. 

Teatime in October after Paris trip, is dark chocolate, wild berry, milky waffles, tiny porcelain with together dried roses in between. 

JEAN-PAUL HÉVIN 

THÉ HUONE