Magazine Madness: COSTUME Finland June 2013

COSTUME Finland June 2013

Why Finnish Fashion Doesn’t Sell?? A Very Oriental Points of View

Talking about female high fashion, what occurs most of us might be Chanel or Dolce & Gabbana; going shopping at female fast fashion, BIK BOK, Forever 21, H&M, TOPSHOP, Uniqlo and ZARA are wide choices to consider, but none of those concerns the final piece of land, Finland. Nevertheless, its major city, Helsinki, just having been World Design Capital in 2012, but how do Finnish designers take care of the silhouette of citizens and promote the marketing in a country with extremely swiftly-changed climate??

The question is also the main theme of Finnish fashion magazine COSTUME June discussion forum. As the fact, from accessories to women’s wear, Finland never lacks of amazing fashion designers’ brands, such as IVANAHelsinki, jaana haaksiluoto, Minna Parikka, miun, R/H or TYRA THERMAN. Finnish female fashion designers mostly have their very own spirits, their collection/idea is more like the independent house rather than a mass production merely; therefore, each season’s circulation is limited, and accordingly, the charge of the production would be definitely higher.

Finnish fashion insists on ‘design in Finland, made in either Estonia or Finland’ policy; without relying on sweatshop manufacturing, the high cost of laboring results in the high retail price, more or less, the numbers on the price tag reduces the of shoppers’ impulse of purchasing behavior.

For fast fashion market, Finnish local brand Seppälä only spreads along Baltic territories. Its office wear design is less formal than ZARA, nor the collaboration is highly intriguing as H&M, even the price is less amusing than Uniqlo.

Perhaps due to the small amount of population operating one of the most difficult languages on earth, Finland has never been a leading role on colonisation, industrialisation nor globalisation. On European marketing, French houses and Italian family having been providing luxurious and sufficient choices to buyers for centuries, while Finnish designers being forced to step aside; on Oriental views, most Asians know Finnish fashion through Japanese’ magazines or programmes, but unfortunately, knowing is one thing, buying power is yet another issue. Particularly, Finnish brands have not opened chain stores in the far-eastern regions since a lot of Asians convince that ‘seeing is believing’. Visibility is the key to sell successfully.

Finnish designers do not have to drift with the waves. Finnish fashion does sell, but it needs a little bit more time to appreciate the concept of design and pride of insistence; once you realise Finnish, there is almost no way back.

Photography & works cited:

www.costume.fi

Happy Holiday & Fashion Fun! Mid-summer Holidays at N’62’, E’29’

20-25 of June 2013 Jyväskylä

At mid-summer holidays, Helsinki is the City of Deserted. Finnish either spend time at lake houses, or stay at their friends’ summer cottages. On the road we head to Jyväskylä, a university city in central Finland in the western part of Finnish Lakeland. Taking Jyväskylän Express from Helsinki Kamppi Station, it takes about 3h5m to arrive. After short light meal break, we folks haul the mini truck, drive yet another 1h30m to N’62’, E’29’ lakeshore.

In Finnish, mid-summer day is called Juhannus, translated as John the Baptist Day. Originally the pagan holiday, before 1316, the summer solstice was called Ukon Juhla, (Ukko’s celebration) after the Finnish god Ukko. Traditionally, midsummer is a potent night for many small rituals, such as young ladies collecting seven different flowers and placing them under her pillow, or knitting the flora crowns and taking sun dance, for seeking suitors and fertility. Bonfires at midnight, sausages cookouts, tent sauna, boat trip or drinking parties are ritual activities in Finland. Juhannus is also Finnish Flag Day, which the flag is hoisted at 6 pm on Midsummer’s Eve and flown all night till 9 pm the following evening.

Handmade apple jam with pancakes, lakeshore picnic, forest hiking, white night and mid-night sun, forget about annoying mosquitoes and super large ants, making flower tiara by my own hands is unforgettable summer holiday experience.

Photography: Mindy Yuan 
Special Thanks: PH

Just Do It: How to Make the Flora Tiara Without Wire Loop!

Flora Tiara is fragilely graceful, that’s how we love its delicate beauty. A tiara is the traditional symbolic form of headgear worn by a monarch or by a divinity, for whom the tiara traditionally represents health, victor, honour, and glory, as well as immortality and fertility. At lake house terrace, for the white night and sunny moment, let’s DIY our very unique tiara, have a Nordic coronation and crown ourselves.

Be Prepared:

Scissors and gloves

Step by Step

1. Into the wild, gather and cut several fresh flowers in a variety of sizes and colours, save the stem around 10~15cms. The number of flowers would require approximately 2 dozen individual flowers or 3 dozen bunches of miniature flowers, since during the DIY process, some flowers may fall or destruct easily. We picked as followed (with Finnish translation):

- Blue crownflower: ruiskaunokki/ ruiskukka

- Violets: orvokki

- Daisy: päivänkakkara

- Meadow Buttercup (poisonous): niittyleinikki

- Bee flower: Finnish folks call it 'mehiläiskukka' (a kind of rose)

- White rose: juhannusruusu

- Clover flower: apilankukka

- Lilac: metsäkurjenpolvi

- Baby’s Breath: ahopukinjuuri

- Magpie’s clock:harakankello (a kind of lilac)

- lupiini, lemmikki,kukkaseppele/kukkakranssi(Finnish names of various flower)

2.Gently hoop the stem of flowers while knitting, and leave about 5cm of flower steam so later we can tie a knot when we finish the crown.

3.Overlap the next flower over the stem of the first flower, as decoration, insert miniature flowers among the gaps between flower loop, until the entire hoop is covered.

4.Tie the flower stems with straws and knot them at least twice. Finally, trim any long stems with scissors that protrude from the flora tiara. According to experiences, a flora tiara may take 30mins to 1h30min.

OK! Now we have our outstanding headpiece, coronet time!!!

Photography: Mindy Yuan, Paukku

Special Thanks: Paukku ja Perhe Heikkinen

http://www.ehow.com

Magazine Madness: VOGUE Holiday with Kate Moss June 2013

VOGUE British June 2013

YES! Kate Moss is the cover girl again, which, several euros must be spent, and bookshelf needs to be spaced! 2013 is the year marks 2 decades of Kate’s first VOGUE British cover, and June issue is Moss’s 33 rd appearance on the front. Comparing to other runway super giants, Kate looks like a petite kitten, but quite on the contrary, her anti-model-industry-regulation figure makes her styles much more down-to-earth to we usual females, since it’s quite a rare chance owning 6 feet plus size 0. Haute couture, high street, rock ‘n’ roll or beach chic, Kate nails them effortlessly yet sexually.

Icon model teaming up with professional photographer is an art asset. Totally 21 campaign pages at St. Barthes, PatrickDemarchelier invites Kate on his yacht for summer fashion shoots. Cat-eyed sunglasses, nostalgic flora dress, white stripes, leopard-print bikini, straw hats, fuchsia shorts and exotic earrings, with up-close fuzzy focus, the rich colours through Demarchelier’s lens just never hide, even the mode is black-and-white. Susie Harris on June issue article ‘What Makes a Model?’ points out that older models, like male ones, really have more values nowadays, which is, ‘a backlash against a raft of new models without life experiences’ (p.204). Since youth may be clueless and hollow, gazers want to see the soul of life out of the pictures; furthermore, social media drastically push the used-to-be-tiny-circle fashion industry under the public spotlight, and turn the exclusive into inclusive. Clients, photographers and viewers stress on attitude more than juvenile. 

       

Indeed model agencies around the world also try their best to search the ‘next new face’, while suddenly Cara Delevingne appears almost everywhere: on the catwalks from Burberry to Fendi, on the front of British VOGUE to i-D. She is comic with thick eyebrows, but she is also bizarre with wide nasal alas, that makes her every photo shot like a camera shock.

A model is very much like an artist: their existence becomes an overrated mania due to being both ecstatically and elaborately flattered by PR, agents, journalists, designers or photographers. Although sudden fame may be abruptly hot, true grace can last permanently.

Works Cited and Photography: British VOGUE

http://www.vogue.co.uk

Harris, Sarah. ‘What Makes a Model?’. VOGUE UK, June 2013. London: Condé Nast, 2013. 

Magazine Madness: ‘Is Marijuana Good Medicine?’ Women's Health May 2013

Women’s Health May 2013

Hemp, pot, weed, grass, cannabis….whatever you call it, let’s not puff it, but talk about it. 

Alzheimer’s disease, depression, diabetes, epilepsy and rheumatoid arthritis, marijuana might highly drag them down all. At press time, in the United States of America, medical marijuana is now legal in 18 states, and Colorado legalized it as any use; regardless, pot is burning under a hot spotlight, especially when marijuana is still mainly classified as Schedule 1 drug globally.*

According to Women’s Health May issue article, ‘Is Marijuana Good Medicine?’ narrates that ‘nearly 11.5 million women are toking (cannabis) for pain relief or for recreational purposes, as a healthier alternative’, (158) and from celebrities to grandmothers, a growing numbers of women encourage the inhaling for the sake of ‘health’. Nevertheless, like every pharmaceutical drug, marijuana isn’t a totally benign remedy. Users can experience side effects such as dry mouth, dizziness, paranoia, retard reaction, heart throbs and as expected, getting very high.

Which method is more risky to lives, being addictive to marijuana or die after overdosing on painkillers? In 2003, a leather basket filled with cannabis leaf fragments and seeds were found next to a 2500~2800-year-old mummified shaman in the northwestern Uygur Autonomous Region of China; the use of marijuana dated back earlier than post-modern public common sense, while researches show that ‘pot cannabinoids might have the ability to help prevent multiple sclerosis and Alzheimer’s, and CBD compounds even kill breast cancer cells (158-59)’. When some parties and individuals praise this appearance of new wonder cure-all, Bertha Madras, PhD, a professor of psychobiology at Harvard Medical School, points out marijuana ‘can damage rapidly developing adolescent brains, cause mood and psychiatric disorders, including schizophrenia’ (159), not to mention the pregnant women and high-drivers, and around 9% of pot smokers become pretty hooked.

Perhaps the biggest issue for critics, according to the article, is the use of marijuana lacks standardization as morphine or other approved over-the-counter medication, also the legitimate instruction for physicians to prescribe. My personal view is, since marijuana articles still adapt too many ‘might’, ‘maybe’ or ‘perhaps’ adverbs, the insufficient of information of marijuana should not be the biggest concern, but the public curiosity is worthwhile wary, since human minds are naturally-born designed as irrationally addictive. Comparing to alcohol or nicotine, yes, using marijuana won’t suffer from hangover, aggressiveness or liver cancer; but while ‘no smoking’ signs limit the zonked freedom worldwide, it seems some ‘marijuana persuaders’ just want to swift to this new addictiveness from old habits, and shouts out so loudly in the name of ‘organic’.

Marijuana can produce the stronger fibers (to strengthen the substance of banknotes), its extracts and hash oil can moisturize dehydrated skins (take a look of The Bodyshop marijuana products). The plant is never wrong nor wonderful, but the wonder of longevity and the nature of doping in human minds. 

 Puff the Pot, Fog the Future.

*In January 2007, a flat located at Taipei shopping area, with no residence but hundred pots of marijuana. It was reported by a deep throat that the major buyers/users are those celebrities/comedians at Taiwan entertainment. Soon those who convicted were losing contracts and put to rehab, and later exposed more household names to the court.

Works Cited and photography:

Jiang, Hong-En. et al. (2006). ‘A new insight into Cannabis sativa (Cannabaceae) utilization from 2500-year-old Yanghai tombs, Xinjiang, China’. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 108 (3): 414–22.

Women’s Health. ‘Is Marijuana Good Medicine’? May 2013. New York: Rodale, 2013. p.156-61.

www.womenshealthmag.com

http://www.thebodyshop.fi

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Marijuana#cite_note-peoplesdaily-139

Magazine Madness: Bérénice Bejo, ELLE Paris June 2013

ELLE France June 21

From Michel Hazanavicius’ The Artist, Argentina born Bérénice Bejo graces So’CHIC, IO DONNA, ELLE France and TGV MAGAZINE. Hopefully there will be English subtitles Le passé (by Iranian Director Asghar Farhadi) showing at cinema soon. ELLE France usually inspires me on style and art concepts of its fashion campaign and culture columns, though editorials are arduous to read, still ELLE Solidad and Beauté are not that difficult to access the practical info.

It is, to me, still unsatisfying that mostly the la mode campaign pages adopted phenolic papers, which, are zero-resistant to humidity and scratching. Fortunately,  after 2009, ELLE France makes the cover front page shiningly glossy, thought easily leaving finger prints on, at least the magazine itself is more simply to preserve (Indeed, I don’t treat magazines as disposable newspapers, furthermore, I would wrap EVERY of my collection on appropriated-sized plastic wrappings, such as ELLE France suits 28.5cm module).

What captures my gazes at June 21 issue is photographer Ben Morris’ ‘Hey, Jolie Jane’ fashion campaign. Stripes, straw hats, sunglasses, skirts and shorts….very Boho, very Jane Birkin. Shooting in Italy, composing the pictures horizontally by using the rocks, the stairs and the chair; the colours contrast sandy brown, Capri blue, snow white and rouge red, on every page turn.

Photography: www.elle.fi

http://benmorrisphotography.com/

   

Summer Salute: Summer Concerts Kick Off: At Kaisaniemi Park

12 of June from 16:00-20:00

6 of December is Independence Day of Finland, easily enough, 12 of June is its Capital Day, so called Helsinkin Päivä! Since the beginning of June, from independent zine Sue, tri-day concerts or pub gigs are promoting page by page; JES! Because music festival season in Finland counts down now, it’s about time to have a very Finnish one to warm up (and the fast way to advance Finnish)!!!

Mainly sponsored by Aalto Radio Station, Kesäkonsertti, at Kaisaniemi Park, right next to Helsinki Central Railway Station, from 15:40-22:00, lists Laura Närhi, Haloo Helsinki, Tuure Kilpeläinen, Irina, Anssi Kela, Anna Puu, Sunrise Avenue and J. Karjalainen as guests for public. Due to the sight and safety concerns, umbrellas are not allowed, while the sky turns cloudy and grey quite swiftly. Luckily when one of my favourite pop rock bands Haloo Helsinki starting, the sky becomes a combination of silver and blue. Haloo Helsinki lead singer Elli sings 2013 single ‘Vapaus Käteen Jää’ (Icy Free hands), the live mood has a slight melancholy, while hits ‘Huuda!’(Scream!) pops up, the whole rock ‘n’ roll spirit transforms the worries of the unpredictable weather of the day.

copyright: Haloo Helsinki

Huuda,huuda ilosta...huuda huuda onnesta!!

Anssi Kela

Alas, the raindrops just fall as its wish, so I skip Tuure Kilpeläinen and rush into Hesburger for a cup of hot chocolate, a chicken burger and French fries to warm my stomach and body, and afterwards my mate joins me from 18:00-20:00. Irina is very much like Janis Joplin, her voice also has a deep potential of grunge singing skills; Anssi Kela performs as powerful as I saw him at IVANAhelsinki event (April 5 th), unfortunately the stereo speakers mute for around 30 seconds due to the unknown reason, but Anssi and the band stay calm and carry on; Anna Puu’s music is lovely, the stage image is romantic, her voice is fresh and her attitude is cute but pretentious, it’s so nice I can watch her play guitar and sing alive. My recent favourite ‘Säännöt Rakkaudelle’(The Rules of Love) conveys fragile but poetic feeling, when Anna croons the lyrics, quite many female audiences chant chorally (me inclusive!); at the moment, the heaven tears drizzly, but the gig just ends amorously perfectly.

More info about Kesäkonsertti, please go to:

http://www.radioaalto.fi/kesakonsertti/

http://www.sue.fi/

Photography: Haloo Helsinki, Mindy Yuan 

Special Thanks: JMH

How can this happen?
Well, you just have to deal with it.

Summer Salute: Vermo Flea Market & Vantaa Picnic

2nd of June from 10:00-16:00

What’s the solution to have shopping bargains when living in a country without night market nor running Sunday business hours?? Yes, morning flea market!!!Not far from Leppävaara, on Majurinkatu, Vermo flea market is more alike a parking lot family sales than market square, while the choices can be from children’s toys, electronics devices, ladies wears to comics out-of-printed.

I love garments, but at flea market I like to search accessories or kitchenware. Luckily, first I found this combing baby pink, shining golden and carbon black vintage earrings from an elegant lady’s stall, then Avène skin recovery cream and cleansing gel at middle-aged mother’s basket, finally 6-pack hand-knitted Tiffany blue handkerchief at elder madam’s table. I was wondering about Made in Germany golden-platted tea cups, 3 euros per set, but unfortunately we folks have to drive to Kimo’s mansion for late lunch.

Kimo’s place locates near Vantaa, an old-schooled Finnish house, equipped with sauna and wooden dining tables, while the main living room deco is very 90’s modern style; the major colours of the mansion are pale white, mustard yellow and Finnish blue. Kimmo has WW2 military souvenirs, amazing Arabia Muumin mugs collection, numerous George Jensen tea kettles and not to mention his rare wine storage in a secret closet.

Therefore, we sit relaxingly under the sunshine at the blossom garden, enjoying Spanish strawberries, honey cake, Mövenpick ice cream, Finnish salad and just-grilled sausage. Surely, it’s yet another perfect way to spend at temperate summer’s day. 

Special Thanks: Heikkinens

Photography: Mindy Yuan 

Our late lunch~

Look at the hedgehog foot mat!!CUTE!!And the chairs are cozy too!