Tea Time Christmas! Ladurée & More Tea Macarons, Handmade Cookies & Wildblüten Honey Served With Czechoslovakia Porcelain

Besides Lomonosov from Russian and Bavaria from Germany, the porcelain produced during Czechoslovakia era (CSK, 1918-1992) has always been intriguing me to discover on the hunt at vintage market. As I do not carry any immune ability to polka dot items (水玉 in Japanese), at Vienna Kettenbrückengasse Saturday vintage market in September 2019, after a bargain conversation with a cunning merchant, at last I transport the cute tea cup, saucer and sugar jar arriving at Helsinki. 

At the bottom of the tea cup set, the logo of BSG Ceramics from Prague, Czech, its clean edge design with poppy red polka dots gives the retro touch, a very much of ‘Itsy bitsy teenie weenie yellow polka-dot bikini’ feel; the porcelain itself is near the bone China for the contrast to Bavarian teacup. Now BSG Ceramics Group Porcelain stoneware, such as used for cladding facades or interior design tiles, is more in the modern construction market. 

The major hues of porcelain of tea time in December is a perfect match with baby pink, mustard brownish and deep purple; therefore, strawberry rose black tea from Théhuone is the choice of Christmas tea time. Adding up 2-3 spoonful of Hamburg wildblüten honey (wild flower) can smooth the acidic flavor. Bio honey or raw honey contains an array of plant chemicals that act as antioxidants, which helps to protect our bodies from cell damage due to free radicals. Also, the phytonutrients in honey are responsible for its antioxidant properties, as well as its antibacterial and antifungal power. Replacing white or brown sugar with honey in the tea is also working as a cough suppressant during the chilly season. Research has suggested that honey is as effective as dextromethorphan, a common ingredient in over-the-counter cough medication. 

Several hazel nuts chocolate balls from Ferrero Rocher are always the best together with gluten free handmade gingerbread cookies from our dear colleague before her maternal holidays: the heart topped 'Mindy' my name, the round cutie of Chanel logo, and square mini hand bags plus  lovely snowflake always make my tea time more fun! While my all-time favourite LADURÉE macarons, the choices of flavours are rose, raspberry and caramel, while Taiwanese teahouse MORE TEA's 100% handmade strawberry candy macarons reach multiple layer to my taste buds. With milk chocolate ball in-between the strawberry cream, More Tea macarons' rich bites without soapy tastes balance the airy texture, comparing to Jean-Paul Hévin macarons of either caramel milky or even bitter sweet due to the percentage of cocoa, both More Tea and LADURÉE ones are more in the dense of moist ganache, sweeter but more ruffled circumference. 

In the darkness of December 2020 to welcome snowy January 2021, polka dot poppy red vintage teacup set with baby pinkish outlooks of macarons, honey jar and handmade snack bites for the afternoon teatime, is an effective emotion remedy during the chilly weekend. 

Special Thanks: Essi, Wasana & More Tea Team

Magazine Madness Christmas: Gillian Anderson Starring Iron Lady with The Crown

Harper’s Bazaar UK December 2020

Admired during the 1990’s for her outstanding role as FBI Agent Dana Scully in The X-Files, later Lady Deadlock at TV mini serious The Bleak House during the 2000’s and Anna Pavlovna Scherer in the BBC’s War & Peace, in this most challenging 2020, GILLIAN ANDERSON achieves yet again the recently captivated Netflix views as she takes on the mantle of Margaret Thatcher in the Netflix’s new series of The Crown. For the past decade, Bazaar’s UK Women of the Year Awards have been a highlight of readers’ calendar, among of New Bond Girl Lashana Lynch, Normal People’s Daisy Edgar-Jones, Gillian Anderson graces Harper’s Bazaar UK December cover by wearing embroidered silk bustier top, candy trousers, silk sandals and diamond earrings by Giorgio Armani. Her quite rare appearance on the cover of the fashion reading, still owning her very compelling elegance, seemingly the epoch has not been etching her age, captures my immediate attention at magazine shelves. 

 

Watching The Crown season 4, we audience realise the confusion. Besides Anderson finds the prosthetic teeth too cumbersome, she wore a padded suit beneath her clothes to bulk up her rather petite frame into more of Thatcher’s, but otherwise there were no particular physical changes or green screen post-production to do as her role: the grand, almost hoarse voice, the tilting walk, the smile is genial but edged with intent. While Anderson questioning the portrayal onto her role of Iron Lady’s lack of Poll Tax or Northern Ireland, but ore of dramatics portraits of the relationship between royal family or Cabinet members, Anderson had to switch off any preconceived notions of the character and simply try to climb insider her head: ‘It is only about Margaret Thatcher as human being and her motivation as a politician and a mother.’ 

Under the camera lenses of Richard Phibbs, with back bust portrait by wearing silver mesh dress of Paco Rabanne, black-and-white close-up or the full silhouette of Alberta Ferretti’s tulle and crystal evening gown, Gillian Anderson’s light pastel pinkish makeups is very close to LADURÉE Bougie Délice Scented candle 80g pottery cup, therefore my photography setting I adopt the Bulgarian dried rose buds to decorate. CHANEL Rouge Allure #91 Séduisante and Crayon Sourcils #60 Noir Cendré are almost the lip colour and eyebrow shade on Anderson, 2020 Christmas limited shining silver camellia CHANEL cover my least favourite price tag, COCO travel size 2ml tube and N°5 trial paper give away a festive mood. For the reasons of matching brownish BAZAAR magazine cover font, I display a mini pine cone (käpy in Finnish) from Jyväskylä and Christmas light for more of holiday read of day. 

 

Special Thanks: Panda  

Beauty Boom Christmas! YSL Nail Lacquer Party With Mascara Vinyl Couture

A touch of appropriate makeup would transform a female into a classy debutante, and a detailed design shall built a classic brand into legendary. Although YSL Beauty is run independently through L’Oreal Paris that licenses the name, YSL Beauty still shows a notable presence, as the brand founder Yves Saint Laurent’s haute couture’s style, in the luxury beauty market.

From the package design, shining golden cap watermarks with bleak YSL logo; mixing nail lacquer #54 Studio Silver and #55 Bronze Fever on my toenails are full of seasonal happy wishes. Comparing to Chanel Le Vernis, YSL nail lacquer dry faster and with glossy touch a long-wear formula with rose oil strengthens, moisturizes and protects nails from chipping and cracking. But still, YSL custom-made brushes are still too wide rather in one clean sweep for my toe application. Still I apply evenly with a luxuriant coverage that requires no touch-up strokes. YSL #104 Holographic Black is a vibrant and dramatic shine to the nails with the top notch of the base hue! Also my vintage collection # 6 Rouge Dada has been my all-time favourite. This is a stunning high-end polish that has gorgeous pigmentation and sine with no streaks or bubbles in sight. I prefer the dramatic holographic black on my thumbnails to create a more Goth cult look at dinner date. 

Revolutionary, highly intense, super shiny color for eyelashes, YSL Mascara Vinyl Couture formula gives lashes length, volume and curl with deep, saturated color. Rotating Mascara #8 I’m the Fire, the golden cap with YSL logo gives away immediately the fragrance of eau de parfum Mon Paris, applying two layers, the shimmering powders grace my eyelashes. This liquid lash color frames eyes with high impact color, can be worn alone or mix and match 2 shades to achieve a unique look:

1. Wear colored mascara on both top and bottom lashes to make eye color pop. Wear the trend in a subtle way by layering colored mascara over black on just the tips of the lashes, or apply the color on the bottom lashes to give a similarly toned down effect.

2. YSL Vinyl Couture mascara is bold enough to wear alone, so keep the rest of makeup simple. On the eyes, keep the eye shadows neutral and eyeliner on the thinner side. 

Radiant and glossy, now I am ready to join the BBQ dinner party in Helsinki!

Beauty Boom! Chanel N°5 L’eau Teams Up with CoCo Noir

Q&A in Helsinki

How do you mix and match with Chanel N°5 L’EAU with CoCo NOIR? 

To my nose, N°5 L’EAU is a floral Aldehyde fragrance, while NOIR is an oriental woody touch. When feminine/ying meets up rather masculine/yang, the conflicts inspire more of compelling attention and imagination. Chanel N°5 L’EAU was launched in autumn 2016 by Olivier Polge, while Coco Noir was created by Jacques Polge and Christopher Sheldrake in 2012. We do not over-interpret Icarus myth at French fragrance industry, yet still father-and-son competition occurred while Jacques was succeed by his son, in 2013, as Oliver the new Creator of Chanel Fragrances. Even several critics expressed their disappointment that Jacques Polge hadn’t opted to create more of ‘authentic Chanel eau de parfum’ onto Coco Noir, quite on the alternative opinion, my deep favour in Coco Noir is that its stronger cologne odour truly gives out the Le Boy elements of Chanel, reflects perfectly the golden age of Monsieur Karl Lagerfeld conquering the Empire of Chanel. 

 

What’s the notes of Chanel N°5 L’EAU & CoCo NOIR? 

Chanel No 5 L’Eau Top notes are Aldehydes, lemon, neroli, Mandarin orange, bergamot and lime; middle notes are Ylang-Ylang, jasmine and May rose from Grasse; base notes are white musk, Orris roots, cedar and vanilla. Coco Noir begins with grapefruit, bergamot and orange; middle notes are rose, geranium, jasmine, Narcissus and peach; base notes are Pitchouli, Sandalwood, Olibanum, Tonka bean, vanille, white musk, cloves and benzoin. Noticing that tope notes both carry orange and bergamot, plus the middle tones are rosy and jasmine smells, therefore, mix and match, back and forth with each other is at fun and in great harmony. 

 

What are the fun facts behind N°5 L’EAU?

Chanel N°5 L’Eau is the flanker that aims to capture the younger, millennial audience; therefore, the face of the campaign is the daughter of Vanessa Paradis and Johnny Depp. Lily-Rose Depp. The main nose Olivier Polge has been working on this composition since 2013. Comparing to the contrasts between L’eau and Eau Premiere, that L’eau has its lemony, sharp side in the way Eau Vive is, while Eau Premiere is creamy and balsamic, but both owns the similar dry down. 

 

How do you find deeply favour in CoCo NOIR? 

Perfumer Jacques Polge declares that Coco Noir reminds him of Coco and Coco Mademoiselle, that makes him continue exploring an entire esthetic range of CHANEL perfumery, a range that distinguishes itself from the floral, one that is illustrated by Bois-des-Iles and Cuir de Russie. It’s how Polge calls the CHANEL Coromandel culture, from Coco Chanel’s apartment in Paris. 

 

From the journey of creating, in 1984, legendary Jacques Polge created Coco, that sumptuous blend of wood, resins, flowers, spices and fruit, which, is a treasure trove of ‘splendours and an endless source of discovery and sensual delight in Venice’. Coco Mademoiselle debuted in 2001, a breath of air that lightens this cornucopia of fragrance, in which everything is simplified and accelerated in a radiant burst of fruit and flower. And in 2012 we have Coco Noir, a great nocturnal Baroque found. From the profound fragrance created by Polge, as if we have take yet another journey in the wake of a Gabrielle who fully embraced the dazzle of black and Venice, incorporating them not only into her creations but into her life.

How do you recreate the setting of photography of N°5 L’EAU and CoCo Noir?

I am a big fan of eau de parfum, besides paying attention to the official commercials, that creating my very own version of beauty campaign stimulates my deeper understanding of layout composition and colour usage. Usually I would decide the whole tone of the series of the photography, and collect the related gadgets or tools to make the subjects under the camera lenses emerging their very own characteristics. For instances, since N°5 L’EAU and CoCo Noir are transparent and black tones, the major accessories, such as Chanel mini shopping bag, perfume trial papers, travel sizes mascara, eye gels and N°5 L’EAU mini twist 7ml, are either black or white. I adopt rose buds and dried rosy leaves on table, indicate their middle notes ingredients, and 2020 Christmas limited edition silver camellia and golden velvet ribbons complete more of gift-season merry, all show the diversity of Chanel products. Chanel Le Rouge echoes the colours of rose buds, and last but not the least, purple orchid bouquet is my 2020 birthday gift from Chanel Helsinki, complete the whole holiday mood beauty campaign!

Art Attack: Coco Chanel Meets Marilyn Monroe at Kämp Galleria, Helsinki

K1 Kämp Galleria Finnish Museum of Photography, Helsinki 

20 August- 20 December 2020

 

Due to the majority of art events in Helsinki have been canceled after the lockdown since March 15th, the debut photography exhibitions open to the public in August at the renewed Kämp Galleria offer the residents a lovely magic. The new space of the Finnish Museum of Photography is located on the ground floor of Kämp Galleria (K1 for Kämp and in Finnish Kerros 1 as Floor 1) presents the legendary fashion designer Coco Chanel and Hollywood actress Marilyn by the Canadian photographer Douglas Kirkland (b. 1934). Kirkland had a long career in Hollywood and he photographed Marilyn Monroe and Coco Chanel when he was working for LOOK magazine in New York at the beginning of the 1960s.

 

These photographic series introduce two very different iconic women who understood the power of the visual in creating impressions. After the photo shoot for the legendary series An Evening with Marilyn, Marilyn Monroe, furiously, cut all the negatives into pieces that did not live up to her high expectations. Coco Chanel, on the other hand, already at a mature age, did not let Kirkland observe her at the Paris Fashion Week until the young photographer had proven his skills in fashion industry.

Viewed from post-modern perspective, the photo shoots of Marilyn and Chanel give an intriguing glimpse into an era in which large-circulation magazines and advertising had transformed the photograph into an essential promoter of modern global consumer culture. The two narrative photographic series dating back 60 years embody both Hollywood’s adoration of movie stars and the history of Parisian fashion. The entrance of K1 Kämp Galleria placing a large bed covered with off-white bed sheets, stimulates the An Evening with Marilyn shooting setting, for the wall of Marilyn, the crimson hue indicates the rouge she loves to apply, or, the indication of her mysterious death. Coco Chanel created the iconic the ‘Little Black Dress’, released the bag from mere hands to shoulders and tailored the padded jackets into tweeds; her black-and-white signature design inspire the monotone of K1 Kämp Galleria exhibition. 

 

With rich memoir of Marilyn and Chanel, the curators of K1 fail to illustrate more detailed information of each Douglas Kirkland’s photography. The visitors can easily pass through a simply 100 square-meters exhibition space and terminate the whole journey within 15 minutes, spending 12 EURO admission fee, in mind without loading any further informative knowledge. K1 as well forgets the insightful introduction to Doulas Kirkland’s education background, his contribution to LOOK magazine in New York, or the process and ‘quotes’ to work with Chanel or Marilyn, puts the photographer an invisible being; though K1 Kämp Galleria fiercely promotes the photographer’s name at entire Helsinki centre for the whole summer 2020. 

 

At rear section of the exhibition, Finnish multi-media artist MUNALISSU mocks the British royal family, plays the fashion outfits in a rather humour way and develops Trump era yet to another funny satire level. I have a lot of fun and discover Munalissu highly comic.